Tried to catch up on some sleep and I was so tired no-one woke me up when they moved around. Did some washing and went to Dads for breakfast (what did I say last night?!) for a very average pancake. Travellers must be very homesick to enjoy this place, or have no food appreciation, or hate to try Chinese street cooking (or just too scared judging by some of the naïve kids that I met here last night.) It was raining and so the perfect day to sit on a bus and see the Terracotta Warriors, after buying a very British looking umbrella in the market outside the train / bus station. The first pit was very impressive but lacked any info. The newer (dug) pits were better but I still had many unanswered questions. Why would someone build such a vast and impressive project and then hide it? Then I saw the circle 360 cinema which gives some propositions to the questions. Basically it was a Mausoleum Fort to guard the Emperor in his Underworld afterlife but it was destroyed during revolts after 3 years of its completion. Then the CD-ROM left me somewhat disappointed. Apparently during the revolts all the soldiers were smashed. What you see now are rebuilt sections of the original ‘china’. And I thought it had all been found underground still intact. I fell asleep on the bus back to Xi’an. Tried to buy a sleeper train ticket to ChengDu but again had trouble. Gave up. Instead wandered around the lively Muslim night market and ate lovely noodle broth. Then a relatively early night.

The train journey was ok, and at least I had a seat this time. The people around me were quite friendly – talkative would be the wrong word, if only for the language barrier. I arrived in Xi’an without a lot of sleep and the Lonely Planet’s directions to the Hostel were way off. I got off the bus (about half way too early) and walked the rest of the way to the Renmin Flats. There was an Aussie couple who had spent two years in the UK and a French girl called Sophie in the shabby dorm. Tired of the travelling so didn’t do anything special in the afternoon. Found a very slow email café in town and if it wasn’t for Phil’s email he had sent the same day, I would have felt very lonely! Realised that it was Wednesday 13th and not the Tuesday as it was in my head – I had got lost by travelling through the night and have no real necessity for the time or day anyway. Went to Dad’s café for a snack but thought it was very over-rated – both in the LP and in their comment book – not such a cool hangout and the food very mediocre. The place has LP syndrome. They don’t have to try because people will go there merely because it is the LP and they know people are only around for a day or two anyway. Make your own decisions.

October 8th, 1999

Maybe I should have realised there would only have been hot water at night, but it’s all part of the learning and experience process. Oh well, a daily shower isn’t imperative. I was up quite early and at the Confucius Temple by 9:30. There I met ‘Auger’ (apologies for spelling) from Geneva Switzerland. We spent the day together wandering around the sights of Qufu. The temple was large, but not as impressive as it could have been. Many of the pavilions were the same or similar to one another and considering the 35Y entrance fee and the scores of other tourists could have been in better condition. The sheer size was the most striking as well as the intricate carvings. A Chinese traditional dance was laid on for us with colourful drums and horns. The costumes, like the surroundings were very intricate and colourful and again I wished I had a camera.
Then we found the much smaller Temple of Zhougong where the paintings and woodcarvings were just as impressive and perhaps more so because it was free to enter and we were the only people there, bar a lone old man sweeping the paths. The neighbourhood surrounding this Temple was also very traditional and quaint with mounds of drying yellow corn lying everywhere there was space. After hiking the back way across ploughed fields towards the Confucius Temple, we once again found our way back on the tourist trail with the annoying trinket vendors and Chinese tour groups with their yellow caps. The park was immense, with some impressive tombs ‘presumably Confucius’ as well other burial mounds. Finished the trip back in town with a local beer by the water, and a chat about the attitude of the Chinese towards rubbish and recycling – or rather lack of it, which was sparked by a fire on the opposite river bank. Then pessimistic Auger got me worried by pointing out I had no idea of the train times nor have a ticket. I wanted to hang around for dinner but was persuaded to get over to the train station and arrange my onward travel by sleeper train to Beijing. I took a pillion ride on a motorcycle for RMB10 to the train station in Yanzhou (30 mins) and managed to buy a hard seat ticket at 9:50 for RMB92. Ate a nice meal at the stalls opposite the station while waiting and then missed the train because I fell asleep waiting at the wrong gate. I had to wait another two hours for the next train. I had no seat reserved on this train and so endured a frequently interrupted sleep to Beijing sat on the floor by the door. Just as I got comfortable in one doorway, we would arrive at another station and the guard would come along and move me to the other side so he could open the door!

October 7th, 1999

Because of my disturbed sleep I eventually got up at 11am and had a bath. The washing I had done last night was still damp. I walked around Tai’an looking for a camera and the railway station. Found neither. I eventually stumbled into the train station via the back-door and then got worried as to how I would get out. Soon found a side gate open clearly. Why does anyone queue up and pay I wonder? I then took the minibus to Qufu (20Y) from opposite the main entrance of the Railway Station at 16:15 and arrived in Qufu around 6 pm. Next door to one mini-bus stop was the ‘Chanqing Bequin’ which offered a room for 80Y. It was a bit scrubby compared to previous nights but ok. Qufu is a really nice little town / or city with many food stalls and quite friendly or just intrigued people. Even so, I had a deep feeling of loneliness. All my thoughts and findings but no one to share them with and not even a camera to record the views and experiences for posterity. I had a bottle of beer and tried to communicate with the people on the next table and watched Chinese Chess. Forgot my loneliness and sauntered back to the hotel. Then, on arrival at the government run ‘prison camp’ I discovered that because they processed me so quickly when I had checked in, they forgot to tattoo a number on my arm. I was all but arrested and driven to the local PSB office. I disturbed a game of cards and a sleep for some others and after waiting in the cold office for some time found out that all they wanted were my passport details which the efficient staff at the hotel had not recorded as they should have. No apology and had to ask for the return lift.

October 6th, 1999

I woke up much earlier than I realised – because of the total darkness. I left about 10 am after a bath – they even had lots of bathroom condiments. Walked through town along the river to the Taishan Guesthouse. Why it’s called a guesthouse I don’t know. 3 star and nicer than last night. How much? Dorm? Meiyou – don’t have. Not this time of year! 320 Y. No, I paid 170 Y and the room was even nicer than the East Hotel last night (so I thought on arrival). Walked to town then a bus to Mount Taishan. Got off at the halfway stage of ‘Zhongtianmen’ (gate to heaven?) – cheating a bit already. Then walked the rest of the steps to the summit. The bus cost 23 Y for ½ hour + 50 Y to access the mountain (during peak season – it is reduced from Nov-Feb). The bus journey was very slow, steep and noisy. There were many steps with vendors all along the route but it only took 1 ¼ hr to the top and there the sun was shining! Finished my throwaway camera from Japan – how am I going to get another one of those as I doubt they have throwaways in China. Although they throw litter away all over the mountain. Some views are very nice – some are dirty. Most are overbuilt – even at the summit, or cloudy – today anyway. Could have taken the cable car back down. I think it would have offered some nice views of Sunset but instead I walked. The top stage taking only ½ hr. I thought the bottom stage on the central route would be more picturesque but it got dark quickly and although they have path lighting only about 30% worked. Feeling lonely as I neared the bottom with my imminent return to the hotel, as there was no-one else to talk to and appreciate the scenery together. I also felt a little unfilled as I cheated by taking the bus half way up but I didn’t realise how much shorter the journey was than advertised – maybe I’m just much fitter! I was hungry and wondered how I would eat once I returned to Tai’an then my prayers were answered! Stopped at a lovely kiosk near the base of the shan and ate Jiazo (gozu) with friendly Chinese Vendors who had prepared their own meal. Suddenly felt fulfilled. They were watching a huge military parade on their t.v and I was told it was in Beijing. Of what, I would later find out the National Day Celebrations of OCT 1st. The return took 1 hr to the bottom including 20+ mins for the meal. Got back to the hotel and the neighbours were very noisy. The tv was loud, with talking over the top of the noise and their doorbell (yes even the rooms had bells) was constantly being rung. I couldn’t sleep at all but became lost in my own world and transfixed with the novel my Robert Ludlum ‘Bourne Ultimatum’ I was reading instead. Eventually got so pissed off around midnight and complained. It worked. But then builders who started delivering materials and banging outside yet again disturbed my sleep. SHUT UP!

October 5th, 1999

Took a bus to Jilan in the morning. Not a bad trip and travelling by bus is quite an experience. It was an interesting journey with some nice views. From Jilan onto Tai’an from about 12-7pm. Not too difficult after I found the bus station! At least the bus journeys were cheap, because the 1st night on my own and I got stung! 200 Y for hotel room – the only choice in town – but it is comfort – no, luxury. Big Bath en-suite, TV etc. Don’t arrive at night because reception will con you after dark I think. Oh well. It’s a long road ahead. Draw no conclusions yet. And I haven’t eaten properly today. My budget has not been met either! The room is only 200 Y (14 pound). There are no windows and hence no light. I won’t know the time or the weather in the morning, and it will be impossible to leave this comfy double bed!