October 12th, 1999

(I have been a bit slack on the writing up and so may have forgotten some of the nuances I would have liked to report.)

Took forever to change my ticket from Shenyang to Xi’an (after the Danish guy confirmed it was the wrong one – my understanding of Chinese script wasn’t so bad after all.) How could they misunderstand my pronunciation anyway!? But I even had the place written down. Eventually got it sorted and took my bag to lockers at the West Station and paid 20Y for the deposit – the commission the porter charged for wheeling my bag 100 yards was massive and I only wanted him to point me in the right direction! I hadn’t eaten yet and so before going into the Lama Temple I stopped at the first restaurant around the corner which was a bit of a hole in the wall. I saw and ordered what the rest of the place was eating – unsure what it was exactly but found it to be VERY hot noodles. I was brave and hungry so ate them all amid constant onlookers without daring to ask for water! Thai Noodles and 16 hours on the train aren’t going to mix I feel! The Yonghegong Lama Temple has nice Buddha’s but the buildings are not so different from other Chinese Styles. It used not to be a Temple anyway, but an Emperors Home. The Lama Temple looked more authentic because it was a working Temple – they input door receipts back into renovation and there were monks reciting in each room, or are they there just to regulate the no photo rule?! The Summer Palace was impressive though, very Grandiose and had a Tibetan Priest wandering around the grounds. The lake was very photogenic but unfortunately the sky was a bit dull as usual and very smoggy. I found out this was the norm and I was just very lucky when I went out to the Great Wall because the Government has shut down all the factories around and about for the 1st October celebrations.

October 11th, 1999

I guess the trip to the Great Wall, or at least the early start yesterday was why I woke up quite late today.  The Danish guy who is apparently sick left without saying much.  Cindy and Lars were also leaving today.  I went to the Forbidden City and walked around the huge complex along with loads of other Chinese and Foreign Tourists.  Some of the buildings, architecture and stone carvings are amazing but it soon becomes a bit ’samey’.  I found a garden inside which is totally different from all around it and has a more natural look with natural rocks and trees.  Chilled out here away from the crowds for an hour or so in the sun and tried to decide where my next destination should be.  Not really any further forward than before.  Then finished off the tour of the Forbidden City and went to the two parks behind it.  Jingshan Park which is on top of a small manmade hill and has nice views over the vast Palace as well as Chinese singers practicing their chords.  Beihei Park is basically a huge manmade lake with an interesting temple on an island.  I imagine it is quite nice in the winter when the lake is frozen and has locals ice skating around it.  Continued North along Beihei to the other lakes and the Drum Tower, but somehow got massively lost and never found the Drum or Bell Tower.  I walked miles in one direction (not really sure which one!) before I found a subway.  I went in completely the wrong direction and nowhere near where I thought I was going.  Beijing is so big you can’t walk it easily – not that I was trying to, but the map and straight roads make it confusing and misleadingly small.  Once on the subway it was easy and I went to the main train station and eventually, after many attempts at various windows and counters bought a ticket for tomorrow night.  Then realised it was for the wrong place .. not Xi’an but Cheang (Shenyang?) and not Xi’an pronounced see-anne?  I will hopefully be able to exchange it as I have no wish to travel further North to Shenyang.  By this time it was 9pm and hard to find somewhere to eat so ended up having a KFC at Qianmen.  There was an elderly woman in there struggling to eat with two spoons as chopsticks.  I gave her some hashi and she was quite grateful.  Shows how China is changing slowly, but is becoming separated at the same time as if they can not keep up with the speed of change.  They have the Western KFC but still will not eat food with their hands.  Would have made a good photo but too embarrassed to embarrass her.

October 10th, 1999

Cindy offered me to go to the Great Wall with them (must be thinking in the Dutch Style!)  We left at 7am by bus to get to Huanghuakou.  The wall was very impressive with beautiful autumnal colours and immense brickwork so high up a mountain.  There was also some quite interesting hiking to do at some points.  The views were amazing, but unfortunately the trip was a little spoiled by the crafty Chinese extortionists hanging around at some towers and gates charging to walk past their tower, and for damaging and eroding the soil around the wall on the trek back to the main road.  Admittedly, there was evidence of soil erosion but they took the wrong attitude trying to be forceful to get a RMB5 toll.  The woman then ripped up the money after the Dutch finally gave in as if to show the money was of no consequence but the principle of the erosion damage was of importance.  It is true how environmentally damaging individual tourism can be.  The walk back through the apple orchards was also nice.  Ate in a Jiouzo restaurant in the main town and then bussed it back.  I bought a reversible Nike/Reebok jacket in Dazhalanxi market then ate near the hotel with Cindy and Lars.  When we returned to the hotel there was a Danish guy, also called Lars, in the dorm who was quiet and found it difficult or just uninterested to join into our conversation with a group who already ‘bonded’. Looking back, it was probably because he was a Chinese Language student (taking Danish tour groups around Beijing on his holiday) and thought he was above the likes of us backpackers, although at the time we were completely unbiased towards his attitude.

October 9th, 1999

The train pulled into the station at 9am, but which station?  Beijing has so many it seems.  Eventually worked out it must be the main station.  Sorted myself out and after a number of bus journeys arrived at the Lihua Fandian in south of the City at 11am.  Shocked at the City prices – only RMB30 a night.  I was in a dorm with a Dutch couple – Cindy and Lars who are very nice.  Looked at me strangely as I stared at them as if they were the first Western people I had met for days – but infact I was just absorbed by their conversation, or at least the sound of it.  They were surprised that I liked their growling guttural language, and we brook the ice.  I went back into town by bus 66 to Qianmen.  Walked around the shopping areas, found an ATM and then dropped by little Russia (Yabalou), quite by accident, which is the Chinese equivalent of Novgorod according to the Ludlum Spy book I have just finished reading.  It is in the East side of town [Ritan] near the International Post office.  Still looking for a camera, a pair of trousers and a warm top.  The days are sometimes cloudy, sometimes sunny in the afternoon but can get quite chilly in the evening.  Walked too far, as is the tendency in unfamiliar Capitals, which was a little frustrating but also wandered around some interesting little local streets.  [I’m sure the streets are no longer there these days!]  Eventually bought a pair of Jeans that fit well back in Qianmen for RMB40 and a Samsung camera for RMB825. Phil had told me to buy a local Seagull brand which use the same lenses and design as Motorola, but I went for the simple option in the end after getting confused by the choice of decent ones. Immediately wished I had paid an extra RMB100 for the next model with English instructions and more zoom, shift focus and red-eye.  Oh well, that’s what happens when there is so much choice and you get frustrated.  Cindy and Lars had suggested eating together but by the time I returned to the hotel at around 8:45 (admittedly quite late), they had given up on me and already eaten.  So I basically starved myself today.